Using Agrotex for growing carrots

Using Agrotex for growing carrots

Carrots this season will be great

Honored Agronomist of the Republic of Bashkortostan Vladimir Ivanovich Kornilov, our professional elder, recommends eating 50 kg of carrots per person per year. This is a bunch of vitamins, great well-being and mood, but you get it all by eating real carrots grown in your garden or bought from those who grow on their own land. Carrots, the one that is imported and grown on groundless - only sun and sand, empty, practically without vitamins, it is just to clog the stomach.

What do carrots like?

Sand, loose soil rich in organic matter, but not too oily soil. Prefers a lighted place, but puts up with a little shading. It grows best on neutral soils, but it can also grow in slightly acidic ones.

What carrots don't like?

Dense and compacted after irrigation or precipitation of soils, because its root system needs a lot of oxygen, especially in the early period. Root crops of carrots are very sensitive to the uniformity of the structure. And bumping into the slightest obstacle, they twist, bifurcate. Carrots do not like acidic soils and a large amount of mineral fertilizers, from which root crops grow woody and tasteless. You can not bring fresh or rotted manure under it, which leads to its rotting in the soil or during storage. With an excess of nitrogen or the introduction of chlorine-containing fertilizers, the root crop branches, it branches when liming directly under the carrots, and when ash is added to the rows during sowing. This is kalylove.

Preparing the soil for carrots

We introduce 3-4 kg / m2 of organic fertilizers - humus or compost, and humus fertilizer Host-Father 0.1 kg / m2. If you prepared a bed in the fall and have already brought in all of the above, then in the spring you can only loosen the bed.
Also, please analyze the pH - acidity of the soil. Even with minimal pH drops, plants will drastically reduce yields. Then you need to lime the soil. It is better, again, to do this in the fall, but there is a soft deoxidizer Lime-Gumi (it contains boron and other wonderful trace elements), which can be used in spring and summer.
In the spring, I do deep loosening with a garden pitchfork.
From my personal experience, I advise you to make beds 1 m wide, the length can be arbitrary, paths between the ridges are 0.5 m wide, so that it is convenient to maintain them in the future.
I do not raise the ridge above the surface of the ridge, but if the groundwater is close to the soil surface, it is better to raise it by 10-15 cm. The entire surface of the ridge should be leveled up and down with a rake.
It is better to sow carrots with different ripening periods - early and late ripening varieties.

Early ripening variety: Minicor, 5-6 kg / m2, for growing on a bunch.
Early ripening varieties: Artek, Nantes, 4-6 kg / m2, for fresh consumption and canning.
Mid-season varieties: Vitaminnaya 6, Volzhskaya, Losinoostrovskaya 13, Moscow winter A515, up to 7-9 kg / m2, for canning, fresh consumption and storage in the winter. This also includes NIISKH 336, Forto, Shantane 246.
Mid-late varieties: Samson, Flakoro 7 to 10.5 kg / m2. Fresh and for storage.
Late-ripening variety: Valeria 5, 2-6 kg / m2. Fresh and for storage.

Important! Note!
For crops that are directly sown outdoors, bubbling can be beneficial, especially for seeds from the celery family. This family includes carrots, which accumulate a lot of essential oils in the seeds, which prevent moisture from entering the seeds. Therefore, carrots have such extended shoots - up to two weeks, or even more, if the weather after sowing is dry and the seeds do not have time to accumulate moisture for swelling. By bubbling, and even with OZhZ preparations, we forcibly wash out essential oils, saturating the seeds with water. By doing this, we significantly shorten the period from sowing to germination. Of course, it is no longer possible to store the seeds after bubbling, they need to be sown almost immediately, after having dried them a little to a loose state.

Bubbling - a method of soaking seeds, which eliminates the risk that seeds without air access can be poisoned by waste products (suffocate). To do this, the water is saturated with air using a conventional aquarium compressor. Carrot seeds bubble up for no more than 18-24 hours.

But Vladimir Ivanovich Kornilov offers the easiest way to wash out essential oils, resins - we place the seeds in a cloth bag for 30 minutes under a tap with hot water (no more than 60-70 degrees). Then we soak for 2-12 hours in one of the bio-solutions: 2 drops of Gumi + 10 drops of Fitosporin-M or 10 drops per 200 ml of water. Rich Vegetables, Berries, Greens. This will ensure germination for 3-4 days, and not for the second or third week. Dry until flowable.

Sowing carrots

How to sow finely seeded carrots evenly?
Take 1 teaspoon (3 g) of dried carrot seeds, mix with 5 teaspoons of fine dry sand. In this proportion, the seeds mix well and evenly. Then we add sand, bringing it to half a glass. You can add the Master-Father and mix thoroughly with sand and seeds. Please note that you should get no more than 0.5 cups of such a mixture, distribute it over 3 m2 of the garden.

Sowing is best done along the long side of the ridge (and not across, as many do). We make furrows 1 - 2 cm deep, spill it with Fitosporin-M + Gumi solution: 1 teaspoon of Gumi + 5 teaspoons of Fitosporin-M + 5 liters of water.

After the solution is absorbed, we lay out the seeds at the bottom of the furrow, fill it with soil from the ridge. The width between furrows is 20 cm, and 5 rows can be placed on a 1 m ridge.

Using Agrotexa gives huge benefits. It does not allow weeds to germinate, does not interfere with the flow of oxygen, passes moisture and dissolved fertilizers well, protects the soil from drying out. Sowing can be done on Agrotex as follows. We make a fold along the first row and cut out a gap (≈2 cm wide, ≈30 cm long) with scissors, where we will then sow the seeds. We leave a jumper 2-3 cm and then again cut out the same gap, again a jumper, etc. Do the same with the other rows.

We put Agrotex on the garden bed, fix it with pegs every meter.
We make grooves in the soil right under the gaps cut out in Agrotex. Before sowing, the soil in the grooves must be compacted, thereby creating a dense seedbed. Sow the prepared seeds evenly with sand and the Master-Father, sprinkle the grooves with soil and slightly compact.

During the entire growth and development of crops, we must feed them with liquid complex fertilizer RICH once every two weeks, or we make infusions with soft fertilizer Gumi-Omi Potatoes, carrots, radishes and water directly over Agrotex, the food will calmly reach the plants.

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How to grow fruitful carrots. Carrot beds

How to grow fruitful carrots.

Carrot along with potatoes and onions, it is one of the main vegetables, so all gardeners find a place for it on a different site. Correct cultivation of carrots, is the key to a rich harvest.

Even in small plots, you can get a high-quality and productive harvest. And if you combine the implementation of the basic rules of agricultural technology with the advice of experienced gardeners, then you can achieve great results in growing carrots, while also saving your labor costs and precious time that can be spent on vacation.

Harvest carrots in high warm beds

Method of growing carrots, which will allow, in a small area: 2.4 m 2, to get a harvest of carrots, which will last until next season.

The determining factor in this method is the presence of a warm, tall bed, which guarantees optimal conditions for the growth of carrots. Namely, it is a deep, loose, fertile layer.

Without such a bed, it is almost impossible to achieve such a layer on our loamy soils.

The second main condition for obtaining a good harvest is the selection of seeds and their correct planting. It is better to purchase seeds from trusted producers and are better pelleted (that is, covered with a nutritious shell). Such seeds allow us exactly according to the scheme, maintaining the required distances, which in turn enables the most unpleasant technological reception - this is the thinning of the sprouted carrots.

Any thinning is an injury to neighboring plants and the attraction of pests to the garden bed, especially a carrot fly. And weeding itself is a rather tedious and laborious task.

Pour a 5 cm layer of old sifted sawdust.

So, we have decided on the seeds, we proceed to sowing. It is produced as follows: on a prepared leveled bed we pour a 5 cm layer of old sifted sawdust, make grooves in them along the bed with a depth to the ground and a distance of 20 cm between themselves, and 10 cm from the edge of the bed.

Then we spill these grooves with warm water; for disinfection, potassium permanganate can be added to the water until pink. Then, not lazy, and painstakingly lay out into grooves, one seed at a time every 3-4 cm. After laying, sprinkle them with sawdust and spill them with warm water again, but from a watering can with a spray.

All the main labor-intensive work has been completed, we are waiting for seedlings, which usually appear in 5-10 days, depending on the temperature. During this time, sawdust does not allow weeds to germinate, so carrot shoots are easily visible. But after 5-6 days after germination, you will still have to weed the garden bed, although this is loudly said, or rather, it will be said to remove weeds that rarely break through.

Sawdust prevents weeds from germinating.

Over the summer, in the same way, it is enough to weed the garden bed twice, until the tops of the carrot itself are closed. Sawdust also made it possible to reduce the amount of irrigation per unit area and prevent rains from clogging and eroding the soil. As you can imagine, loosening with this approach is completely eliminated.

Of course, there can be no question of any additional fertilizing, for example, such as nitrophoska and even Agricola Vegeta and Effekton-O, which are related to organic fertilizers. After all, the garden itself assumes the presence of the necessary amounts of nutrients for the entire period of carrot growth.

High yield of carrots without much hassle

I want to give "carrot" advice. After all, it is not always possible to grow good carrots. This is a troublesome business, especially weeding, thinning, loosening.

All of us, residents of the middle lane, sow carrots in the first half of May. But what I advise: two weeks before sowing, wrap the carrot seeds in a shabby rag, soak and dig on a shovel bayonet somewhere in the garden. Trample the ground and place a peg with a label. As the earth ripens, the seeds will become heavy, swell and even bite slightly.

Lacing with a lace.

And when the time comes for sowing, we do this: well, without haste, we dig a bed, scatter it over the entire surface ( oven ash, about 1 glass per 1 m 2 ). We carefully harrow with a rake to break up clods of earth. Then we mark along the garden bed, pulling the lace. We make the distance between the rows 40 cm. Along the lace we trample a groove (we go foot to foot) so that we get a dense bottom the width of the foot. Thoroughly moisten the soil in the groove, pouring from a watering can.

When the water is absorbed, we begin to lay out the seeds, taking them out of the hole. Swollen, they will be clearly visible on a smooth bottom. The distance between the seeds is 5-6 cm, so as not to thin out later. Then we rake the ground from the sides of the groove and fill in the seeds, lightly slap the row, do not water, so that a crust does not form, which interferes with the access of air to the crops. Seedlings will appear in a week. Now you need to water the plants and loosen the aisles to destroy the weeds. The carrots will grow great!

Sow your favorite varieties using labor-saving technology. Excellent variety "Nanskaya" or its hybrids. The result is always good. Use the same "carrot method" for sowing parsley, beets, black onions, and flower annuals. The main thing is not to forget to dig in the seeds in time, about 12-14 days before sowing, then you will not have to fiddle with the seedlings and there will be less work in the spring.

Good neighbors. Carrots and onions in the same bed

Good neighbors. Carrots and onions in the same bed.

Experienced summer residents say that onions and carrots on the same bed get along well, since their roots are located at different levels, in carrots, deep, and in onions, superficially, so they do not interfere with each other. But it is necessary that the greens of the carrots do not shade the onions. There are no problems with growing, and the harvest and taste of vegetables will certainly delight you. If you want to test this statement, select a garden bed and try growing onions and carrots on it.

For planting, the bed must be made 1.2 meters wide and in the spring it should be filled with fertilizer. For these purposes, you can use (chicken droppings (3-4 buckets) or compost (7-8 buckets)) ... It is good to add 250 g of double superphosphate to organics.

You need to plant onions and carrots at the same time. The planting material must first be prepared.

To do this, stick the carrot seeds with starch paste on thin paper cut into the width of the beds (1.2 m). Or use ready-made seed strips purchased from specialized stores. You can spread manually pelleted seeds.

The distance between the seeds should be about 2-3 cm.

Before planting, onions should be soaked for 2-3 hours in a humate solution.

Do not add anything to the beds where the carrots will grow. And in the places where onions are planted, sprinkle the groove with ash mixed with mineral fertilizer in a proportion of 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per liter can of ash.

When planting, a strip of paper with seeds must be carefully laid along the width of the bed to a depth of about 2 cm and sprinkled with earth. Plant a bow in the next row. It is important not to press the bulbs into the soil, but carefully place them on it. The distance between the rows should be from 10 to 15 cm. Cover the planting bed with covering material for 15 days.

Onions will grow first and should be fed. Feeding the onion should be done when its feather grows to 8-10 cm.To do this, prepare a solution: (for 10 liters of water, take 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ash, urea, extracts of double superphosphate and kerosene). It is good to repeat top dressing after 10-12 days.

Following the onion, carrots begin to grow intensively: root crops grow, acquiring a good taste. The onion harvest can be harvested in mid-August. And then wait for a rich harvest of delicious carrots.

Cooking a bed for carrots. Fertilization

When growing carrots to obtain a rich harvest, the preparation of the garden is of great importance.

When growing carrots, one must remember that this culture is demanding on the composition of the soil. Good yields of carrots can be obtained on light and medium loamy soils, or on cultivated peatlands with a pH of 7.0 (neutral), weed-free, well-drained.

Fresh manure is not introduced into the soil for carrots.

Carrots grow well on lands where their predecessors grew last year - cabbage, green and legumes, potatoes, tomatoes.

It is better to dig a bed under the carrots from autumn to the depth of a bayonet shovel and leave until spring. In this case, it is not necessary to break the lumps. So it will freeze better and in the spring there will be no lumps, the frozen moisture will break them into small particles.

If you have acidic soil, then before digging, add to each square meter. m beds, one glass of dolomite flour, fluff lime or chalk.

A bed for planting carrots cook 2-3 days before sowing.

Depending on the composition and fertility of the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring.

For each square. m beds at peat soils add (5 kg each of coarse-grained river sand, manure humus 3-5 kg, one bucket of sod land (clay or loamy)).

Mineral fertilizers are also added: (one teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea (carbamide), one tablespoon of powdered superphosphate and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate).

Then, after adding all these components, the bed is dug into

depth of 20-25 cm (because the main varieties of carrots have long roots). The bed is well developed, the surface is leveled and compacted. Then the ridge is watered with this solution: (one teaspoonful (at the level) of copper sulfate and one glass of mushy mullein are bred in a bucket of warm water) , stir well and watered at the rate of two liters per square meter. m beds. Then, in order to avoid moisture evaporation and to preserve heat, the bed is covered with plastic wrap.

On clay and podzolic soils ( for each sq. m beds add 1-2 buckets of peat and coarse sand, one bucket of humus, half a bucket (3-5 kg) of small (processed) sawdust (preferably not fresh, rotten)).

Lime, dolomite flour, ash, chalk, eggshells are used to deoxidize the soil.

Mineral fertilizers for carrots: (add chopped superphosphate - one tablespoon and nitrophoska - two tablespoons). In the spring, it is necessary to carry out liming with chalk or dolomite flour, if not done in the fall (which is preferable): two or three tablespoons per square meter. m.

For light loamy soils (they consist of clay and sand) - they produce fertilizer in the same way as clay soils, but they do not add sand.

On sandy soils add two buckets of peat, sod land and one bucket of processed sawdust and humus. Of the mineral fertilizers, they are applied the same as for clay soils. If granular fertilizers are used, then they do not need to be ground into powder.

On fertile chernozem soils add half a bucket of small old or fresh processed sawdust and a bucket of sand.

Mineral fertilizers: (add two tablespoons of powdered superphosphatej).

Manure humus can be replaced with compost, but it should not contain weed seeds.

3-4 days before adding sawdust to the soil, they must be processed. This is done in this way: 5 buckets of fresh sawdust are poured onto a piece of film laid out on the ground. Dilute five tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or urea) in a bucket of hot water, pour it into a watering can and slowly spill sawdust with this solution. The faster the sawdust will be ready for use in the garden, the higher the temperature of the solution (40-50 ° C).

Fresh sawdust, untreated in this way, can be applied to the beds only in the fall. If fresh sawdust is added in the spring, then the leaves of carrot seedlings will have a pale color due to a lack of nitrogen (sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil when rotting).

When planting carrots on newly reclaimed lands (virgin lands), it is necessary to carefully select all rhizomes when digging, especially wheatgrass, as well as wireworm and May beetle larvae.

Carrots, like all vegetables, are light-loving culture, therefore, in the shade, root crops grow very short (up to 3-5 cm), and the yield is reduced by two to three times. Excessive moisture in the soil contributes to diseases of the roots of carrots, therefore, in places where groundwater is close, the beds should be made at least 30-35 cm high.

On poorly cultivated and dense soils, root crops grow in an ugly shape, branch out, the quality of root crops and the yield decrease.

Planting dates for carrots

The sowing time is of decisive importance for the carrot harvest.

Since carrot seeds germinate slowly, they require good soil moisture, and they should be sown as early as possible, as long as there is enough spring moisture in the ground. If you are late with sowing, the seeds will fall into dry soil and as a result, rare, weak seedlings germinate, and often the seeds do not germinate at all and you have to finish sowing the garden bed.

For sowing carrot seeds, the most optimal timing: in the central and middle lane: early varieties - from April 20 to 25, mid-season - from April 25 to May 5.

In the southern regions, sowing is carried out in two terms: for obtaining products in the summer, spring - March 10-20, and for obtaining testes (uterine roots) and winter consumption, summer sowing - June 10-15.

You can sow carrots before winter, on frozen soil, in November - December. Sowing is done with dry seeds so that they cannot germinate until spring, otherwise the seedlings will freeze. Such carrots, sown in winter, grows much earlier, but they are mainly used in the summer, because not suitable for storage.

So having prepared soil for growing carrots, You will get a rich harvest.

Medium early varieties of carrots

A longer ripening period of these carrot varieties allows obtaining a higher content of vitamins and useful microelements (compared to earlier varieties) in sweeter and juicy fruits (in comparison with late carrot varieties). Sowing medium early varieties, usually in the last week of April.

6. Carrots "Karotel"

High-yielding variety. The root crop is small, up to 15 cm long, cone-shaped, rounded at the end. The fruit grows in 100-110 days from the moment of sowing the seeds. High yields are achieved with appropriate care and adherence to the rules of agricultural technology. Shooting and "flowering" rarely affect this variety. Among mid-early varieties of carrots, they have a long shelf life.

Carotel carrots grow well with sufficient moisture, so they should be watered at least once a week.

Growing this variety of carrots, we get a very juicy fruit, which is given a sweetish taste by the high content of carotene and sugar. A great treat for children and adults.

7. Carrots "Nantes 4"

Very popular among the time-tested, best table varieties of carrots. It is included in the golden collection of our breeders. This variety is grown in all regions of the country and in any soil and climatic conditions.

Fruits - cylindrical, regular classical shape with a blunt end and a small tail, weigh up to 150 grams. The average length is 15-17 cm. The pulp is orange with a reddish tint.

The yield is up to 6.5 kg per square meter. Suitable for winter sowing. Full ripeness is reached in 78-108 days. It is successfully stored until the end of December. In a cool, dry place, in a mixture of sawdust and shavings, it is stored almost until the next summer harvest, albeit with some damage.

The advantage is the immunity to "blooming", resistance to carrot flies, rot and mold.

The best harvest is harvested on loose fertile soils. Undemanding in care when growing. Thinning of carrots during growth makes it possible to get earlier small fruits.

Great taste. One can call the carrot variety "Nantes 4" one of the most delicious, which is confirmed by many gardeners. It is consumed raw and processed. You can use carrots for food after half the ripening period.

8. Carrots "Vitamin 6"

A universal variety of carrots of the old selection, which is very popular among gardeners. Distributed almost throughout the territory of Russia, except for the northern regions.

The shape is even, oblong-cylindrical, with a blunt rounded end, 15-20 cm long. The root vegetable weight ranges from 70 to 170 g, can reach 200 g. Intense orange color. The core is starry, faceted.

Ripening period 80-110 days, depending on climate conditions. The yield is above average, up to 9-10 kg per square meter. Seeds are sown in early spring.

It is undemanding to cultivation, has a long shelf life, and is hardy to weather conditions. Resistant to "flowering", but susceptible to common diseases in carrots. Frost-resistant, winter sowing is possible.

Insufficient availability of phosphorus and potassium in the soil can lead to a deterioration in the taste of carrots. Late harvesting of carrots, poor thinning, untimely fertilization of the soil also reduces the quality of taste. Fertilizer should not be applied one month before harvest.

Excellent sweet taste of Vitaminnaya 6 carrots, high content of carotene, vitamins, fructose distinguish this variety among many others with a medium early ripening period.

9. Carrots "Chantenay 2461"

This classic variety is considered the best among the best, and its fruits are called the most mouth-watering and aromatic.

The fruits are cone-shaped with a cut off end. Even in solid ground, the fruits are smooth, not curved. The length is small (up to 14 cm), the fruits are rather thick, up to 6 cm in diameter. Crispy, dense pulp, bright orange color. The mass reaches 300 g, however, with good soil moisture, giants weighing 500 g can also be grown.

The variety is universal, widespread. The ripening time is 80-110 days. With proper care and timely watering, the yield is 9 kg per square meter. Long shelf life - until the time of planting a new crop.

Carrots "Chantenay 2461" are undemanding to soil quality and climatic conditions. It calmly tolerates a period of drought and an excess of moisture. In the absence of high humidity, the fruits are not prone to cracking.

To obtain an earlier harvest, they are sown in mid-April; to obtain a harvest for storage, they are sown in late May-early June on open, sunny plots of land.

This variety of carrots is grown everywhere, as one of its main advantages is undemanding to the quality of the soil and climate. However, a loamy soil fertilized with humus is preferred. The variety is cold-resistant, suitable for winter sowing. In this case, the seeds are sown dry in frozen soil.

The taste is good enough, juicy and aromatic. A high percentage of carotene and sugar. It is used both in its natural form for making juices and salad, as well as in processed form.

10. Carrots "Moscow winter A 515"

A distinctive feature of this variety is the preservation of beneficial qualities during storage and use of raw carrots throughout the winter.

Carrot "Moscow winter A 515" looks like an elongated cone, the end of which is rounded. The fruit is orange in color, the surface is smooth, length 15-18 cm, weight 100-170 g, the core is round, small. The body of the root vegetable is soft, aromatic, and has excellent taste. Sufficient presence of sugar and carotene.

The variety is universal, cold-resistant. Distributed everywhere. Fruit ripening period is 90-110 days. Productivity is 5-7 kg per square meter. Sow carrots in open, sunny areas.

When growing carrots, it is important to observe the crop rotation. Carrots grow remarkably and match the palatability of the variety if planted after tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, potatoes, cabbage and garlic.

Seeds are sown at the end of April with warm soil, deepening them by two centimeters. Seeds are covered with earth or sand-peat mixture and covered with foil until shoots appear. Carrots germinate slowly, so special attention should be paid to removing weeds from the garden.

How to save root crops from disease?


When growing root crops, you need to know the signs, causes of disease and disease control measures. Consider the most common root crop diseases.


A fungal disease that affects all plant organs, including root crops.

In the second half of summer, whitish, later grayish-brown stripes or elongated spots with numerous black dots appear on the leaves and stems of the plant.

Phomosis (dry rot) is a fungal disease. It affects leaves, stems, roots.

Then root crops are affected. On their surface, slightly depressed gray-brown spots are formed; on the cut, the affected tissue is dark brown, dry. Phomosis also develops on the aerial parts of the testes. During the winter storage period, the affected root tissue is destroyed, and voids appear under the spots filled with white mycelium. In the spring, the planted infected queen cells die before flowering.

Control measures.

  • Crop rotation (that is, carrots and beets cannot be grown in the same place for more than 3 years)
  • Moderate watering
  • Timely weeding and thinning of crops
  • Protecting root crops from damage during harvesting
  • The correct storage regime (temperature about 2-5 ° C, relative air humidity 85%).
  • Before sowing, the soil (preferably grooves) is watered with a bacterial preparation "Barrier" (5 tablespoons are diluted in 10 liters of water), watered from a watering can, 2 liters per 1 m 2. When the tops of the carrots reach a height of 6-10 cm, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 g is dissolved in 10 liters of water), 1 liter of solution is consumed per 10 m 2.


Beet root eater is a fungal disease.

Flexible disease, often develops with excessive moisture and lack of air on acidic heavy soils.

Beet seedlings that have not emerged on the soil surface, and seedlings before the formation of three or four pairs of true leaves on them, are susceptible to damage.

In plants, roots and root collar turn brown and rot. In the affected seedlings, the stalk and root turn black, become thin, a constriction appears, the plants die and die. With a weak lesion, plants develop, but lag behind in growth, have a large number of fibrous lateral roots. The mass of root crops and their sugar content are significantly reduced.

Control measures.

  • Seed dressing in a solution of the "Zaslon" preparation (2 caps for 0.5 l of water). The seeds are soaked in this solution for one day. Then, without washing, they immediately start sowing. Before sowing, add "Deoxidizer" to the soil (2 tablespoons per 1 m 2).


Cercosporosis of beets is a fungal disease.

Fungal disease. Cercospora develops throughout the summer on leaves, petioles and stems in the form of round or elongated small (2-3 mm in diameter) spots. They are dirty-gray or brownish-yellow, turn pale when dried, are surrounded by a red-brown border, and often fall out. Lower, larger, older leaves are more affected. On the petioles and stems, oblong, slightly depressed spots are formed, on which a grayish bloom appears in damp warm weather. With severe damage, the leaves darken, curl and fall to the ground. The yield is sharply reduced.

Sources of infection are plant debris, some weeds affected by cercospora.

Control measures.

  • Seed dressing.
  • High agricultural technology.
  • Spraying plants at the beginning of growth with fungicides. 20 g of the drug "Hom" is diluted in 10 liters of water, sprayed with 1 liter of a solution of 10 m 2.
  • The second spraying is carried out with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (50 g per 10 l of water) when a root crop is formed the size of a walnut or the bacterial preparation "Zaslon" (3 caps per 1 l of water).


Cercosporosis of carrots is a fungal disease.

The first signs of the disease are found in the middle of summer. Small, round or irregular, brown spots with a light center and reddish-brown rim of spots appear on the leaves. On the underside of the leaf, in the spots of the spots, a grayish bloom is formed, consisting of sporulation of the fungus. Gradually, the spots increase in size, turn pale, the edges of the leaves curl. On the petioles and stems, the spots are yellow-brown or brown, elongated, depressed. Diseased plants develop poorly.

Particularly intense infection with cercospora is observed in rainy, cloudy weather at air temperatures (23-24 ° C).

The fungus is preserved on plant residues in the soil and also on seeds.

Control measures.

  • Destruction of plant residues.
  • Deep digging of soil.
  • After harvesting, the soil is treated with a solution of copper sulfate (50 g per 10 l of water) or the preparation "Zaslon" (3 caps per 1 l of water), consuming 1 l of solution per 5 m 2.

Curliness (wrinkling) of beet leaves

Curliness (wrinkling) of leaves is a viral disease. manifests itself in strong curvature of the leaves.

A viral disease that affects all types of beets, spinach, sorrel and other plants.

It manifests itself in a strong curvature of the leaves, twisting of their edges, the growth of petioles slows down, as a rule, it is observed in early summer. Affected plants bear some resemblance to cabbage lettuce. The veins on the leaves become watery, thickened. The leaves gradually turn yellow, turn brown, die prematurely, the roots remain underdeveloped. With a strong development of curliness, the roots sometimes die off before harvesting. As a result, there is a significant shortage of yield, and the sugar content of root crops decreases.

The virus spreads rapidly under favorable weather conditions, infecting almost all plants. If mature plants become infected, the disease manifests itself as shrinking of the young inner leaves.

The transmission of the virus from diseased plants to healthy ones is carried out by the carrier - the beet bug. The causative agent of leaf curl remains in the soil on plant debris.

Control measures.

  • High agricultural technology.
  • Beets are sown away from spinach crops and beet seed.
  • Young shoots of beets are treated with insecticides from pests, for example: a solution of the drug "Iskra" (1 tablet per 10 liters of water), sprayed with 1 liter of a solution of 10 m 2.


White rot (sclerotinosis). It affects carrots, parsley, cucumber, cabbage, beets and other crops.

Causes significant yield losses during storage. In addition to carrots, parsley, cucumber, cabbage, beets and other vegetables are susceptible to the disease.

On heavy soils, with excessive moisture, the growing root crops become licky, covered with a white, loose, cotton-like bloom. Over time, it thickens, and first white, then black hard tubercles appear. When they are formed, a liquid is released in the form of shiny drops. A strong development of the disease is usually noted one to two months after laying the root crops for storage.

Sclerotinosis, or white rot, appears as foci and quickly passes from diseased root crops to healthy ones. The development of rot is especially enhanced at high humidity and temperature (20-25 ° C). If diseased roots are planted, they rot or give rise to testes, which soon die.

Control measures.

  • Crop rotation.
  • Correct harvesting and storage of root crops. Root crops are stored at temperatures below 10 ° C. - Etching of mother liquors.
  • Spraying plants with fungicides.
  • Destruction of plant residues, laying of healthy, undamaged root crops.
  • Enhanced plant nutrition with potassium (1-2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water), consume 3 liters of solution per 1 m 2.
  • Heavy, damp, acidic soils in the fall are limed with the addition of fluff lime, chalk or dolomite flour: 150-200 g per 1 m 2, or in the spring, when sowing carrots, add organic fertilizer "Deoxidizer" (2-3 tablespoons per 1 m 2).
  • Root crops of carrots, parsley, beets, planted on seeds, are washed with Hom solution (20 g per 10 l of water).
  • The room is disinfected with sulfur bombs before laying the root crops for storage.


Black rot (Alternaria). It affects carrots, parsley, celery, parsnips, dill.

It affects not only carrots, but also parsley, celery, parsnips, dill.

On carrots, the disease usually develops in the second half of the season. Brown spots appear on the lower leaves, covered with a faint black-greenish bloom, consisting of sporulation of the fungus (conidia). The spots grow and often cover the entire surface of the leaf. Such leaves turn brown and die off, and the mushroom stalks into the top of the root crop and causes it to rot.

During storage, the disease in root crops manifests itself in the form of slightly depressed black rounded or irregularly shaped spots on the side and at the top of the root crop. Affected tissue remains firm and dry.

The development of Alternaria in the open field is facilitated by warm, humid weather. Sources of infection are plant debris.

Control measures.

  • Correct cultivation and storage of root crops.
  • Burning plant residues.
  • Treatment of plants with the biological preparation "Zaslon" (3 caps per 1 liter of water). Processing is carried out when the carrot tops reach a height of 10-12 cm.
  • In the middle of summer (July 10-15), a small addition of the "Barrier" preparation is made near the root crops (2 tablespoons per 1 m 2).


Gray rot (botrytosis) of carrots. It also affects beets, radishes, tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers.

Not only carrots are susceptible to this disease, but also beets, radishes, tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers.

Gray rot develops during the growing season and during storage. Round or irregular brown spots appear on carrots. Gradually, they cover the entire surface of the root, abundant fluffy greenish-gray mold appears on it.

Disease of root crops with botrythiasis can occur both in the garden and in storage areas. Dried, overcooled, untimely harvested root crops are especially strongly affected by gray rot.

Testes in case of development of gray rot on root crops subsequently wither. High temperature in storage places favors the development of rot.

The fungus is preserved in the soil, on plant debris.

Control measures.

  • Correct agricultural technology, harvesting and storage of root crops.
  • Disinfection of the soil after harvesting with a solution of copper sulfate (30 g is diluted in 10 liters of water), 1 liter of solution is consumed per 10 m 2.
  • Before laying the fruit for storage, the room is disinfected with sulfur checkers.


Wet rot (bacteriosis) of carrots. Celery, parsnips, onions, parsley, etc. are also affected.

The disease affects not only carrots, but also celery, parsnips, onions, parsley and other vegetables.

It can also appear in the beds. Affected plants wilt. The disease develops especially rapidly during storage. Infected roots develop dark, watery spots. Rot begins to develop from the top or tip of the root, then quickly spreads to the entire root crop. It becomes watery, its tissues rot, giving off an unpleasant odor.

During storage, such root vegetables completely turn into gruel and infect healthy ones. The most susceptible to the disease is dried, hypothermic, damaged carrots. Particularly strong rotting is possible with the early laying of wet root crops for storage, high air humidity and temperatures above (5 ° C) in the storage.

Control measures.

  • Timely harvesting of root crops
  • The correct storage regime for root crops.
  • The room is disinfected with sulfur bombs before laying the root crops for storage.

Probably, there is not a single amateur gardener who would not grow carrots on his plot. Experienced gardeners, as a rule, sow varieties and hybrids that they have loved for many years, but they constantly add some new ones that interest them with their characteristics.

But this is not an easy matter. Every year, domestic and foreign breeders create about a hundred new varieties. And it is not at all easy for a seasoned gardener to choose the best from them. What can we say about newbies?

Store shelves are full of bright pictures of multi-colored carrots. But the information about the variety itself on the bag is rather scanty. In addition, the photographs often do not correspond to the varieties sold. This is especially true for import firms.

By the way, mini-vegetables are now very fashionable abroad, from which frozen mixtures for frying are made: carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pea pods and beans no more than 2 cm long.

And the photographs enlarged several times on the bag look like full-fledged normal root vegetables. Many varieties of spherical carrots have appeared on the market. Restaurant chefs love to use it to decorate exotic dishes.

So choosing the best varieties of carrots is difficult. Therefore, we want to help you with this. Let's say right away - all our varieties strictly correspond to the declared characteristics and look exactly like their photos in the catalog, on the website and on the bag.

Today we will present you our best varieties of carrots for spring sowing, tell you about their characteristic differences and recall the basic rules that must be followed when growing carrots in order to get a full harvest of tasty, healthy fruits.


By maturity... All varieties and hybrids of carrots can be divided into 4 groups: ultra-early ripening, early, mid-ripening and late.

Ultra-ripe ready for use in 55 - 74 days. For example, the variety Kuroda Shantane... You can start digging it out after 55 days. As a rule, these varieties are not very large, juicy and thin-skinned. But they are not stored for long. So eat them fresh or cook them right away.

Early ripen in 75 - 85 days after sowing. These are mainly hybrids. A lot of them. A very good hybrid, for example - Lagoon F1.

Root vegetables are ready to eat in 75 days. They are larger than the ultra-early ripening ones, but they are also good fresh and do not stay long.

Mid-season... Ripening period - 90 - 105 days. The roots of this carrot are large, with a denser skin, sweet and juicy. They can be stored for a month. An excellent mid-season hybrid - Prominance F1. (ripens in 95 days).

Late... Ripen in 110 - 135 days. They are best planted for long-term storage. Root crops are large, with dense skin, juicy, sweet, perfectly stored in the basement or vegetable store until spring.

Some of the best hybrids - Elegance F1, Squirrel F1.Both mature in 130 days.

By color... Root crops of modern varieties and hybrids of carrots can be: bright orange (Yaroslavna F1), yellow (Taborskaya), white (White Satin F1), purple (Purple Hayes F1).

To size... Small (7 - 10 cm, for example, Crown F1), medium (15 - 20 cm, for example, Honey Spas F1), large (25 - 30 cm, for example, Princess F1).

By form... Cylindrical (for example, Soprano F1), conical (Silvano F1), elongated fusiform with a blunt tip (Morelia F1), round (we don't have such varieties).

Taste... Regular (Presto F1), sugar (Early sweet F1). Be sure to plant sugar carrots for the kids. They will be happy to gnaw it, especially since carrots contain a huge amount of vitamins and nutrients.

By the presence of a core... Regular (Crown F1), heartless (Madonna F1).


We have already described in detail the history of cultivation of carrots, the selection of its best varieties and hybrids, the beneficial properties of root crops and the agricultural technology of this crop in our published articles:

Now let us remind you of some of the most important rules to remember when growing carrots.

The soils must be neutral. Carrots, just like any other root crop, will never give you a crop, even on slightly acidic soils.

As agronomists say: “On acidic soil, you can grow not carrots, but only“ rat tails ”.

Therefore, the land on the carrot bed must have a neutral reaction.

If you have heavy acidic clay soils, as soon as the snow melts, neutralize the garden beds where the root crops will grow.

The best means for this are dolomite flour or crushed chalk (at the rate of 2 kg per 5 sq. M of the garden). Bring deoxidizers under the digging. After 2 weeks, you can start forming the beds.

No chemistry. Carrots will accumulate all chemical fertilizers, plant protection products and chemical growth stimulants in their roots.

All this will enter your body and be deposited there, causing great harm to it. Therefore, to fertilize carrots, use only "natural": rotted manure, leafy soil, compost, slurry, wood ash and
fermented grass.

Do not spare water for irrigation... To keep your carrots juicy and sweet, water them at least twice a week. And in extreme heat - every day.

Root crops need oxygen... After each watering, loosen the soil in the garden well so that a soil crust does not form on top, which prevents the access of oxygen to the root crops.

After loosening, mulch the carrots with a 5 cm layer of straw. This will help retain moisture in the soil and inhibit the growth of weeds.

Thinning. Make sure that there is a free space of 7 - 9 cm between the plants. Otherwise, the carrots will be cramped, and they will not be able to grow quickly and well.

Read more about the agricultural technology of carrots in our article:


We have told you about the main characteristics of different types of carrots. We are sure that this will help you make the right choice when buying seeds for the upcoming new season.

We present to you our unique varieties and hybrids of carrots from our collection. Take your pick!

Our collection :

Miracle carrot:

The sweetest carrot:

You can read more about these varieties and hybrids on our website or in the SPRING 2021 catalog.

And you can order the carrots you like today!

Using Agrotex for growing carrots - garden and vegetable garden

The result of growing vegetables largely depends on the seedlings. It should be strong, healthy, not too elongated, and with a good root system.

When growing seedlings loose soil is required in boxes and pots. A good option is a mixture of three components of equal volume: compost, coarse sand and garden soil (garden mixture), and, if possible, soil from molehills. For good drainage, a layer of fine gravel should be placed at the bottom of the box, and crushed eggshells should be placed on top. Drainage is also necessary in cases of sowing seeds in small cups, always with several holes in the bottom. In these cases, the seedlings will later have to be dived into larger pots. A dive can be avoided if you initially sow seeds in half-liter plastic cups and grow seedlings in them until they are planted in the ground. Cups with seedlings are placed on grates, and boxes on legs or slats to allow excess water to drain freely, and to some extent improve the supply of air to the root system for the normal development of seedlings.

Important conditions getting good seedlings - proper watering, lighting. The soil must be watered before sowing the seeds, but not after, since otherwise the seeds are washed off, unevenly buried, and clumped together. The next watering should be carried out with a sprayer with a fine-hole nozzle, preferably with a weak solution of potassium permanganate with a temperature of 23-24 ° C. Do not allow the formation of a crust that is detrimental to seed germination. A moderate humidity regime is required. Frequent and abundant watering causes the seedlings to stretch. Excessive humidity is especially dangerous in low light conditions. To improve the light regime, place the seedling pots less often on sunny windowsills and as close to the glass as possible. Enhance the lighting with a reflective effect: Build panels with cardboard or plywood sheets and cover them with foil. They will not only enhance the lighting, but also add warmth when the sun's rays fall on the windowsill.

When transplanting plants from box to box it should be remembered that they do not like to be touched.

Therefore, when transplanting, you need to take up the root ball. The best time for picks is in the evening, when the plants are easier to tolerate injury.

First time feed seedlings two weeks after diving with superphosphate and wood ash (a teaspoon per 3 liters of water), spending half a glass per pot. After another two weeks, a second top dressing is carried out - with nitrophosphate or complex fertilizer (a teaspoon per 3 liters of water), combining top dressing with watering. These feeding norms are not dogmas. It is necessary to take into account the fertilization of the soil used or its mixture when planting seedlings, so as not to harm the plants.

Over time, the soil in the pots is compacted by itself, so it is necessary to make a bedding.

Elongated plants are the result of excessive diligence of the vegetable grower: excessive watering, non-observance of the temperature regime. As a rule, seedlings acquire a pale green color. It should be fed with urea (a teaspoon per 3 liters of water), moved to a place where the air temperature is 10 ° C, and stop watering. After a short time, plant growth will stop. They will acquire their characteristic color, and they are again placed in places with a favorable temperature regime for them.

When growing seedlings keep her from overgrowing in the April days. To balance the growth of the aerial organs and the root system, it is necessary to ensure the proper temperature. For example, tomatoes need an elevated temperature: in sunny weather - 22-24 ° С, in cloudy - 16-18 ° С, at night -12-14 ° С, for cabbage, it is desirable in sunny weather - 18-20 ° С, in cloudy - 14-16 ° C during the day, 10-12 ° C at night.

Seven days before planting in the ground, the seedlings are subjected to temperature and light hardening. Gradually, over four days, lower the temperature (for example, to 8-10 ° C for cabbage and 12-14 ° C for tomatoes). Then the seedlings are taken out under the open sky: first for four hours, the next day for half a day, then for the whole day and then for the whole day.

Well-seasoned seedlings have a fibrous, well-developed root system, a thick stem with leaves of the characteristic dark green color of the plant, and short internodes.

Experienced gardeners achieve good results in growing seedlings at the final stage in the open field of the greenhouse. This is done as follows: at the end of April (depending on the temperature regime), seedlings are planted in a greenhouse on a garden bed at a distance of 10 cm from each other and 15 cm between rows. Additionally, foil-coated temples are installed. Once every ten days, the shelter is ventilated, the plants are fed. In the event of a drop in night temperatures, additional cover with film or paper is carried out.

Seedlings of various plant species have their own age limit, exceeding which does not accelerate, but retards the growth and ripening of fruits and reduces the yield. Practice confirms that for pumpkin seeds this age is about a month, for tomatoes - a little more than two, cabbage - about two months. Knowing the favorable timing of planting seedlings in their zone in open and closed ground, it is not difficult to calculate the timing of sowing seeds.

You cannot rush to plant seedlings and sow seeds in open ground and in a greenhouse. In spring, frosts are often detrimental to young plants. Planting in cold soil inhibits seedling growth and seed germination. It is also undesirable to be late with sowing and planting, you can lose the harvest: the plants ripen later. When what to sow, nature prompts - this natural regulator of garden affairs. In early spring, the common coltsfoot is among the first to bloom. At this time, the gardener must be ready to work the soil. It is carried out simultaneously with loosening lumps with a rake and sowing without a break in time, but the soil must be "ripe" - warm enough. The best time to plant many crops is when certain wild plants are in bloom. For example, carrots can be sown when aspen and willow are in bloom. Turnips, parsley, peas, radishes, radishes, dill, onions are best sown at the same time. The maple tree has bloomed - it's time to sow the beets. Dandelion has bloomed - plant potatoes. Rowan and lilac blossomed - it's time to sow cucumbers and plant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, physalis.

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