When to dig up calla lilies in the fall so they don't freeze
Callas are amazingly beautiful flowers native to Africa. Despite the fact that they belong to tropical plants, calla lilies are confidently beginning to settle down in garden plots in different regions of Russia. One of the important stages of caring for these plants is the timely digging of the bulbs before the onset of frost.
When to dig up calla lilies in the fall
Calla lilies cannot withstand frosts below -2 ° C, therefore, in all regions of Russia, these flowers must be dug up for the winter.... The best time to do this is right after the first frost. But if you do not have the opportunity to get to the dacha at any time, then you can dig it up a little earlier, otherwise, with a sharp onset of frost, the flowers may die.
Excessively early digging of the bulbs is also undesirable, since it is with the onset of cold weather that the development of the bulbs passes into the next stage. The first sign that the plant has ended its active period of development is yellowing of the leaves. But it is more accurate to determine the date of digging out the bulbs by focusing on the weather. Taking into account the average temperature indicators in different regions, the approximate period of such work is as follows:
- Moscow region, central regions of Russia - the first decade of October;
- Novosibirsk region, the central part of the West Siberian region - end of September;
- Leningrad Region, Primorsky Territory - the last decade of October;
- south of Russia - end of November.
In order for the plant to better prepare for the dormant period, a few weeks before digging, it is necessary to exclude watering and preferably protect it from precipitation. In this case, all the nutrients go to the formation of the bulb, and are not spent on the growth of the leaves.
You need to carefully dig cannes from the ground, placing the tip of the shovel away from the plant. It is better to just loosen the soil, and then select the bulb with your hands so that it does not get damaged. Damaged bulbs may not withstand the storage phase.
The dug calla lilies are left with the leaves for ten days to dry.
Video: caring for calla lilies after flowering
The unusual shape of calla lilies and bright colors cannot leave a true flower lover indifferent. The agrotechnology of caring for their garden species is in many ways similar to the cultivation of gladioli, which also originate from tropical Africa, and does not present significant difficulties. Perhaps soon these flowers will become familiar inhabitants of our gardens and parks.
Recommended days of 2020 for harvesting garlic planted in the winter in the Urals and storing it
Bulbous plants, including garlic, are demanding on the conditions of digging and storage, and if these requirements are not met, it is difficult to keep the crop in good condition. Due to violations, problems often arise that lead to a decrease in the quality of the crop and reduce the shelf life.
- too early or, conversely, late harvesting, affects the shelf life - garlic is stored worse, begins to deteriorate
- damage caused by inaccurate digging can cause infection
- pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in heads that are not dried or collected in damp weather
- during storage without access to air, mold may develop, rotting will begin
- if you do not inspect the stored garlic, then because of one diseased head, the entire crop will die.
Planting winter garlic on time, according to the rules of agricultural technology, proper care guarantees a good quality harvest, and harvesting garlic according to the lunar calendar, observing the storage conditions will guarantee its safety.
Why you need to dig up tulips
The tulip is a native Asian. It appeared in gardens in the East already in the XII century. The name of the culture itself comes from the Turkic word tulbend, which was used to name the fabric used to sew a turban. Some scholars believe that the name comes from the resemblance of the flowers to the shape of the traditional headdress of the Asians.
It is interesting! Nature took care of the perennial, giving it a natural immunity to fusarium and gray rot. Specific glycosides deposited in the integumentary scales perform the function of a fungicide, protecting the vegetative organ from fungal infection.
Wild ancestors of modern culture are typical mountain plants. Growing in harsh places made them hardy, forced to shorten their life cycle. Botanists classify tulips as ephemeroids - plants that are characterized by a short growing season. The mountain abode forces the vegetative organ to go deeper every year in search of nutrients, because the soil in such areas tends to quickly wash out, losing fertilizers.
This feature has been passed on to modern perennials. If the bulbs are not removed from the soil annually, they will gradually sink deeper. This will lead to depletion of the planting material, because the peduncle will have to spend more energy and nutrients for germination. The chances of seeing buds when deeply buried are significantly reduced. Gradually, the plant will deplete its supply of food, which will lead to death.
Deepening significantly complicates the care of the bush. Failure to transplant for several years will lead to an increase in a large number of children. Digging can damage the socket with the tool. The soil at the planting site is gradually becoming poorer, becoming a breeding ground for fungi. Annual transplantation helps to avoid the spread of diseases.
Know! Tulipalin is a natural tulip glycoside that protects it from diseases, for humans it is a strong allergen that can cause acute contact dermatitis. It is recommended for people with allergies to use gloves when working with the planting material.
Another reason for digging an Asian guest lies in the processes taking place inside the vegetative organ. The ephemeroid does a great job in a short life cycle. After flowering, the shoots gradually dry out, and the heads fall into a dormant period. But inside the vegetative organ, life boils - new layers of storing scales grow, daughter bulbs and flower buds are formed, nutrients accumulate. If you do not separate the young growth every year, then the growth rate will decrease.
The plant will spend a lot of energy and nutrition to maintain the health of the offspring, performing its main function - reproduction. In this case, the laying of flower buds with the much-desired buds is relegated to the background.
The formation of flower buds occurs only at a certain temperature regime. In the vastness of Asia, the earth warms up to a sufficient depth and retains heat for a long time. In Central Russia, the substrate temperature drops significantly in August, therefore, without digging and subsequent warming up, flowering may not occur. For exotic, cooling is also important. In the fall, the rudiments of buds are laid and if the heads are stored without observing the temperature regime, flowering will also not occur or deformed flowers will form.
Remember! Subject to the annual transplant, you can not only admire the bright buds next season, but also replenish the plantation with young specimens.
When to plant hyacinths: optimal planting dates in autumn and spring
Naturally, like all bulbous, hyacinths are planted in the fall before winter. At the same time, you need to choose such a time so that the bulbs have time to take root, but do not germinate. That is, if you do this before the necessary time, then the frosts will simply destroy the plant that has sprouted, and if later, then the bulbs will not have time to take root and will freeze again. Therefore, it is very important to know the optimal dates for planting hyacinths in the fall, which will differ depending on the region of your residence and the corresponding climate and weather conditions.
Important! If you planted the bulbs at the right time, but suddenly, according to the weather forecast, a sharp cold snap is expected, then you should increase the layer of mulch or cover the plantings with spruce branches or fallen dry leaves.
Thus, in the middle lane (Moscow region), hyacinths should be planted in the second half of September - early October, in the Urals and Siberia - in late August and early September, and in the southern regions - throughout October.
Is it possible to plant in spring and how to do it
If you were presented with blooming hyacinths in a pot (for example, on March 8 or some other spring holiday), then after they have faded, in order to preserve the bulbs, the plant can be planted in open ground. To do this, you first need to cut the peduncle so that it does not take excess nutrition from the bulb. You take out the hyacinth bulbs together with the earthen clod and bury them to the same depth at which they grew in the pot, having previously poured a layer of sand on the bottom as drainage. Then cover with nutritious soil and water, wetting the soil around the bulb, and not itself. If suddenly, according to the weather forecast, you find out that return spring frosts are expected, then on this day it is better to cover the plant bulbs with non-woven material. When you see that their leaves are dry, then you should get rid of them by removing with pruners or scissors.
Advice! If for some reason you do not want to plant hyacinths in the spring, then you can do otherwise. Wait until the leaves of the plant dry up and cut them off. After that, get the bulbs, dry them and put them in storage until autumn planting.
Video: planting hyacinths in spring
Tulip care in autumn and winter
If you know when to plant tulip bulbs in the fall, then do not forget that the weather is dry and warm requires generous watering of the beds with plants. Before the onset of persistent frosts, it is necessary to loosen the surface of the soil so that it does not become compacted.
When the ground freezes to a depth of 10 cm, it is recommended to insulate the surface of the tulip bed with leaves and spruce branches. If a frosty winter is expected, an extra layer of lutrasil and sawdust will be required. The insulated "blanket" for tulips should reach a thickness of 15-20 cm, and in winter it should still be periodically added snow. If tulips were planted in the fall in the southern regions, you can get by with a small layer of leaves and sawdust.
Experienced gardeners do not recommend using a film to cover tulips. Fungi and mold can multiply under them, which, with the arrival of spring, will move on to flower shoots. With loose shelters, this can also happen. You can prevent tulips from infesting by removing the shelter immediately after the snow melts. To hurry tulips with flowering in spring, after thawing the soil, you can feed them with mineral fertilizers (10 g of superphosphate, 8 g of potassium salt, 10 g of urea are taken per 1 m² of the garden). If the soil has not been refilled since autumn, the amount of fertilizer can be doubled.
Compliance with the recommendations and terms of when to plant tulips in the fall will help to get bright inflorescences and bulbs ready for subsequent transplantation with many children. Plant these colorful glasses and enjoy their charming look!
The lush bloom of spring tulips brings great pleasure not only to those who breed them, but also to casual passers-by, especially if the florist is well versed in how to plant tulips correctly. It is doubly pleasant to look at such flower beds with orderly rows of impeccable large flowers!
Spring planting of lilies
After you have prepared the soil, you need to dig holes. The depth of the holes should be up to 10 cm, but you also need to take into account the variety - depending on this, the depth of the holes can be more or less. For example, low-growing crops need to be squeezed to a depth of 8-12 cm, and tall ones - 12-20 cm.If the roots are very powerful, then add another 5 cm.
The planting intervals also depend on the variety. For low-growing plants, it is enough to leave 15-20 cm. Take the prepared bulbs and set them in the holes. Cover with earth and tamp lightly with your palms. After pouring. It is necessary to ensure that the landing site is not flooded with water, otherwise the bulbs will rot.
If you want the inflorescences to "look" towards the path or the house, you need to orient yourself to the north, that is, try to plant them to the north of the object. Lilies love if their stems are reliably protected from the scorching sun. To this end, stunted flowers such as violets and daisies can be planted next to them. Their leaves will reliably retain moisture, which is so necessary for the bulbs.
Maintaining optimum soil moisture is the first thing you need to watch out for. Watering is carried out as the soil dries up (accordingly, in dry periods, watering is done more often, and in rainy periods, watering can be excluded altogether). Use the root-watering technique (called strip irrigation): surface irrigation can harm lilies. If necessary, fertilizing can be applied along with watering.
In the first year of life, the plants are rather weak. Therefore, in order to improve their development, remove all the buds: the lily will spend too much energy on flowering and, having weakened, will not be able to endure the winter frosts. But in the second and third years after planting, the plant will bloom profusely. Usually, in the fourth year, the flowering intensity decreases - this means that the crop needs feeding. Closer to the fifth year, the flowers are divided and transplanted.
Advice! Do not forget to create support for the lilies: these crops often break under the weight of their own stems.
Phlox is a beautiful, widespread culture that does not differ in high demands on growing conditions. Providing simple conditions, you can get a lush and grateful flowering. To preserve a perennial plant for the next year, proper wintering is needed, otherwise the culture will freeze and be lost. Classic phloxes tolerate light frosts, while their Dutch counterparts are more demanding to ensure wintering. If this condition cannot be met, the rhizomes can be stored in a cool place in a container, planted annually in the spring.