Echeveria Parva Care – Growing Echeveria Parva Succulents

Echeveria Parva Care – Growing Echeveria Parva Succulents

By: Teo Spengler

Just because you want a plant that is tough doesn’t mean you should settle for one that is less than gorgeous. One that fits into the resilient and striking category is Echeveria. This genus of easy-care succulents has attractive rosette-shaped foliage. If this sounds promising, read on for more echeveria plant information, in particular growing Echeveria parva.

Echeveria Plant Information

Echeveria parva succulents are great little garden survivors. They tolerate heat, drought and also cold snaps, yet are also lovely, with their red-edged rosettes and dramatic flower stalks. According to echeveria plant information, the ‘parva’ species is difficult to find in commerce, but it is worth the effort. Parva offers unique coloring, with icy blue-green rosettes trimmed in blood red accents.

‘Parva’ means dwarf in Latin, so it makes sense that Echeveria parva succulents are a small variety. However, the rosettes are extremely dense, to the extent that they are compared to cabbages. The succulents also delight with golden, bell-shaped flowers on long stems. They are popular with both bees and hummingbirds.

Growing Echeveria Parva

If you want to start growing these succulents outdoors, you’ll have to live in a fairly warm area. Echeveria parva plants are cold hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. On the other hand, it’s easy to grow succulents in containers in any region. You just have to remember to bring them into a protected area in winter.

Echeveria parva care starts with planting these lovely rosettes in a full sun location. If you are doing container plants, place them outside in summer in a sunny spot.

Regular irrigation is an important part of care for echeveria parva plants. Water regularly but not too often during the growing season. As winter approaches, cut down on irrigation. The very worst thing in terms of Echeveria parva care is giving your succulents wet feet in winter.

If you love your echeveria succulents, you may long for more. This is not a problem. The plants tend to clump and form pups. These can be removed and replanted to start a new plant. Echeveria propagates easily from cuttings too.

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Echeveria Plant Care Indoors

It’s hard to resist Echeveria, with their jewel-tone leaves and, if you’re lucky, brilliant flower spikes. They make interesting additions to container plantings and rock gardens, but these frost-tender succulents must be tended as houseplants in cold-winter regions. Here’s how to keep them looking their best indoors.

Indoor Echeveria Care

Light: Place indoor echeveria where they will get a lot of sunlight without high light, they will likely begin to stretch out of their tight rosette form. In winter, a south-facing or west-facing window will probably supply the brightest and longest period of light each day. Place your echeveria right on the windowsill or on a piece of furniture pulled up next to it.

Soil: Echeveria require excellent drainage, so choose or make a potting mix that provides it. A store-bought potting mix labeled for cacti and succulents will work well, or you can use an all-purpose potting mix and add coarse sand and/or aquarium gravel to lighten it and enhance drainage.

Watering: Let the soil dry completely, then thoroughly wet it. Let it dry completely before you water again. Be careful to aim the water at the soil surface rather than pouring it over the echeveria leaves if water becomes trapped in the rosette, problems could ensue. This can also be avoided by watering from below: that is, standing the pot in a shallow container of water until the surface of the soil is wet. (The water will soak into the soil via the pot’s drainage holes or through the sides of the pot if it is made of porous clay).

Plant an Echeveria Garden in Pots

Echeverias do great in containers, so why not plant an echeveria garden all in pots? Because echeverias have great color, symmetry and resemble fleshy flowers, my own potted collection suggests an exotic flower garden. Although a few Echeveria cultivars do OK in garden beds---notably 'Sahara', 'Blue Sky' and 'Crimson Tide'---most need and deserve TLC. Nothing is as gorgeous as a perfectly grown echeveria. Otherwise, why have them?

A year ago, after a trip to Wright Nursery (owned by famed echeveria hybridizer Dick Wright), I planted an echeveria garden in five large pots on my home's east-facing deck.

The 30-square-foot potted garden enhances my dining room view and is easy to tend. In winter I move pots closer to the railing to give them rain or greater sun. In summer, I slide them back into a north-facing corner for greater shade. Every couple of months year-round, I rotate the pots 180 degrees for balanced light exposure. This is important because echeverias lean toward greatest sun, which can spoil their symmetry.

Is it a lot of work? Not at all. The pots are lightweight, and I'm blessed with a hose bib on the deck. My biggest challenge is not splashing the window. The pots sit atop plant stands to give them greater prominence and height, and to enhance air circulation. (This also helps protect a wood deck, but ours is now a synthetic impervious to water. Over the years, potted plants rotted the original wood deck, which we had to replace.)

To celebrate its one-year anniversary, I did a 5-minute video of my potted echeveria garden. I think you'll agree it's both practical and eye-catching. As for which varieties I used, there are so many to choose from! Find specific names on this site's Echeveria page photo gallery, noted with an asterisk. But I don't think it matters much. I basically mixed what I liked and was available, then filled in with graptoverias and other common intergeneric crosses.

Echeveria Plant Information: How To Care For Echeveria Parva Plants - garden

We were recently asked a series of questions by a customer about growing Echeveria indoors during the winter. So, we thought we’d post the information shared to hopefully help others. We were specifically discussing Echeveria, but it applies to all tender succulents.

Echeveria and other non-hardy succulents look amazing in patio planters. Echeveria are originally from Mexico and Central America. They aren’t used to the cold and will die in freezing temperatures. Just because you live where winter is a real winter doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy these colorful plants.

You can keep them healthy during the cold months by moving them indoors. Then, once the threat of frost has past, gradually move them back outside in the spring. Other people who want to enjoy these colorful plants, but don’t want houseplants, treat Echeveria like annuals and just plant anew each spring.

Like they’re used to in their native growing grounds, Echeveria like full sun. However, try to avoid these two things: drastic sunlight changes and summer afternoon full sun.

Dramatic changes in lighting can stress plants out. If you are moving your plants outside in the spring, do it gradually. A couple hours in morning sun, then a few more, until they are in full sun.

Intense afternoon sun can, in some regions be too strong and the leaves will sunburn. Burned leaves will not heal and since Echeveria keep their leaves for a long time, it will look burned for a long time. If the damage is severe you will be best off to cut the head off the plant and let it re-grow from the stalk.

During the winter, when your plants are inside, put them near the brightest window in your house. Your plants will stretch if they don’t have enough sunlight. Ideally you would put your plants near a south-facing window. If that isn’t an option, though, put them near a window that gets the most light.

Echeveria, indoors or outside, don’t like to be kept too wet, but they also don’t like to be kept too dry. We typically find that succulents like more water than most people think. In a house the dry home temperatures dry things our even faster. You don’t want your soil to be bone dry or it will wither the plant’s roots.

When you water Echeveria, water the soil and not the rosette. Pour on the water until it drains out the bottom. Repeat this a couple times. Then don’t water again until the soil has dried out. You don’t want your plant to remain soaking wet all the time. To help prevent this, don’t let the pot sit in a saucer full of water. The time between watering depends on the temperatures and conditions of the plant.

The most common problems seen on Echeveria are due to poor watering habits. Over and under watering can both produce similar symptoms. Wilting, shriveling, dropping leaves. You know your own watering habits best. Keep an eye on your plants and make adjustments if needed.

Like all succulents, Echeveria need soil that drains quickly. This helps prevent moisture from rotting the roots. Many growers will create their own special mixture of soil and perlite. However, good quality potting soil, or a cactus mix will work fine. As a rule of thumb, when you squeeze a handful of moist soil together, it should crumble apart again when released.

You will often read “sandy” in the soil requirements for succulents. This simply means that the soil needs to drain well. If you do add actual sand to your soil, make sure that it is coarse grained. Fine sand will clog the air pockets in the soil.

If you keep your plants alive for several years, you will want to re-pot them. Getting a fresh change of soil every couple years will keep them healthy and growing well.

Fertilizer is not a continual requirement for Echeveria. Succulents grow natively in soil without a lot of nutrients. So, they are especially susceptible to fertilizer burn. However, they can benefit from the occasional extra boost. Use a slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of spring, or a liquid fertilizer diluted 2-4 times more than normal and used less often than recommended. Use a low nitrogen mix or a cactus fertilizer. Remember that it is a lot easier to over-fertilize succulents than to under-fertilize.

When you pot up you Echeveria, you have a wide range of containers to choose from. Generally the smallest size possible, or something that is just bigger than the root ball is the right choice. People sometimes worry about overpotting. This is when you use a large container for a small plant. The potential problem is that greater soil volume can hold more moisture and lead to the risk of rot. However, the soil you use with succulents should have excellent drainage anyway and larger pots shouldn’t pose any problem. So, find the container that you think looks great, small or large, and let your Echeveria grow.

Watch the video: Echeveria Varieties - Easy to Grow Succulents, Care and Watering