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Can I use transparencies to cover the pool

 Can I use transparencies to cover the pool


An outdoor pool can be a hassle. Pollutants, plant debris, insects get into it, so it is advisable to cover the pool. Transparent film for this is one of the obvious, but not the best option, and here's why.

Is it possible to cover the pool with transparent film

Owners of outdoor pools are aware of the fact that in between use, the frame structure must be covered. If this is not done, a lot of debris will get into the water: tree leaves, fluff, foreign objects.

Special awnings are included in the set for modern and high-quality pools. If there is no canopy, theoretically, you can try to adapt transparent film for this purpose. But this method has many disadvantages.

Special awning for the pool

The transparent film does not protect the pool walls from fading. Ultraviolet rays pass through it. The water under such a shelter gets very hot. If it's not hot outside, this can be considered a plus. When you want to swim, you can remove the film and enjoy swimming in warm water. But this is considered a disadvantage if the climate is hot and the pool is used for cooling.

Heating water, disruption of air exchange can provoke the development of a fungus... The causative agents of fungal infection damage the scaffold. Microorganisms thrive in warm water. A pool covered with a transparent airtight film can become a source of danger during epidemics. If there are no special devices and you have to cover the frame with polyethylene, you need to more thoroughly disinfect the water. It is better to give preference to tablets containing chlorine, or drugs with components that suppress the development of the fungus. Disinfection methods such as adding brilliant green, potassium permanganate are not suitable in this case.

In addition, such a shelter will not protect the water in the pool from blooming - the growth of green algae.

To prevent the water in the pool from blooming so much, I made small holes in the film. So it is possible to establish air exchange. But you need to be careful with this. If there is a heavy downpour, the water in the pool will arrive. The film may also be damaged.

How to replace polyethylene

It is better to use special awnings to cover the pool. They are often sold as a kit, but you can purchase them separately from specialized stores. The awnings are made of breathable material that does not transmit ultraviolet light. They protect the water from the ingress of contaminants, but at the same time do not create conditions favorable for the growth of fungus on the walls of the frame. In this case, the walls of the pool retain their bright color and excellent appearance.

To make the water warmer, to prevent debris from entering it, use a solar film. This is a special bubble film that floats on the surface of the water when placed in bubbles downward. Solar film significantly reduces evaporation and, at the same time, does not have the disadvantages of conventional transparent polyethylene film.

Solar film for pool cover

Feedback on the situation

It is theoretically possible to cover the pool with transparent film, but this helps to prevent only the ingress of debris into the water, but not the fading of the frame. It is better to assemble a special canopy or choose a shelter made of an opaque breathable material - and thereby solve all the problems at the same time.

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Is it possible to cover the pool with transparent film, reviews - garden and vegetable garden

I came across this opinion on the net! what will the practitioners say to this?
1) the husk layer grows with mycelium after the first rain.
2) it rains for a day, and under the husk layer the earth remains dry and compacted. Only watering or heavy and prolonged rain can wet it
3) Further, you need to keep in mind that a layer of mulch in the spring pushes back the heating of the garden for at least a week. I do not know in what latitude your dacha is, the further north, the more relevant this issue is. And if straw, leaves can be raked into the aisles in spring, then with husk it is somewhat more problematic to do it. If mulch is mixed with earth, then the straw, leaves over the winter, I think, will still rot. And here is the husk. Even after three years without applying a nitrogen source, it remains unchanged.
four) . With daily watering, my peppers dried up in the heat. The soil under the husk remained dry.
5) We use it not only for compost, for paths between beds.

6) low availability for decomposition by soil microorganisms. To them
includes wastes from post-harvest processing of agricultural crops, for example, the husk of sunflower seeds and buckwheat

7) If we talk about the ash obtained after burning sunflower husks, then it has absolutely

a different composition and cannot be used in the same way as wood ash.

8) Now about the seeds. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, so it cannot be littered even in the garden.

9) About the sunflower, in particular, the site na-zemle.ru section "restoring agriculture". And here is the opinion of the chemists of the Irkutsk Institute: the composition of the sunflower husk fraction is close to humic substances of technical lignins and humic acids of peat, but differs from them in a lower content of aromatic fragments and a high content of alkoxy fragments.

Well, now you can beat me with sticks if I'm wrong.

I came across this opinion on the net! what will the practitioners say to this?
1) the husk layer grows with mycelium after the first rain.
2) it rains for a day, and under the husk layer the earth remains dry and compacted. Only watering or heavy and prolonged rain can wet it
3) Further, you need to keep in mind that a layer of mulch in the spring pushes back the heating of the garden for at least a week. I do not know in what latitude your dacha is, the further north, the more relevant this issue is. And if straw, leaves can be raked into the aisles in spring, then with husk it is somewhat more problematic to do it. If mulch is mixed with earth, then the straw, leaves over the winter, I think, will still rot. And here is the husk. Even after three years without applying a nitrogen source, it remains unchanged.
four) . With daily watering, my peppers dried up in the heat. The soil under the husk remained dry.
5) We use it not only for compost, for paths between beds.

6) low availability for decomposition by soil microorganisms. To them
includes wastes from post-harvest processing of agricultural crops, for example, the husk of sunflower seeds and buckwheat

7) If we talk about the ash obtained after burning sunflower husks, then it has absolutely

a different composition and cannot be used in the same way as wood ash.

8) Now about the seeds. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, so it cannot be littered even in the garden.

9) About the sunflower, in particular, the site na-zemle.ru section "restoring agriculture". And here is the opinion of the chemists of the Irkutsk Institute: the composition of the sunflower husk fraction is close to humic substances of technical lignins and humic acids of peat, but differs from them in a lower content of aromatic fragments and a high content of alkoxy fragments.

Well, now you can beat me with sticks if I'm wrong.


Description Perhydrol 35%, (4.7 liters / 5 kg) (hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide)

Perhydrol is a unique and affordable disinfectant with a wide spectrum of action, used in various spheres of human activity. The liquid has a slightly viscous consistency, has no color, has a slightly metallic taste and a specific odor. The composition of the peroxide is quite simple - two hydrogen molecules and two oxygen, the formula looks like this H2O2. This is an unstable compound that quickly decays into its components. It dissolves perfectly and indefinitely in water, ether and alcohol. It can be produced in various concentrations, depending on its purpose. As a result of the disinfecting effect, up to 99.9% of pathogenic microorganisms are destroyed:

  • mold fungi and their spores
  • bacteria
  • viruses
  • chopsticks, etc.

The disinfecting effect is triggered when the liquid comes into contact with water. The substance is quite aggressive, on contact with mucous membranes and skin causes burns, explosive in high concentrations.


Growing seedlings

The technology for growing seedlings at home consists of several stages.

  1. For planting the Firewood variety, it is better to use purchased tomato seeds with the current expiration date. Material harvested from last year's harvest should be pre-processed. First you need to discard unsuitable seeds - dip in saline solution (½ tsp. To 0.5 l of water). After half an hour of soaking, all the seeds that have sunk to the bottom are removed, washed and dipped in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. This will help destroy all pathogenic microflora. After processing, the seeds are dipped in Epin's solution for half an hour, which will increase the percentage of their germination and good growth. Before sowing, the seeds are placed in wet gauze and kept in a warm and dark place for 24 hours. This will help them hatch and sprout faster.
  2. Container preparation. It is better to use disposable containers or peat tablets - then there will be no need for a pick. When planting in boxes or plastic containers, the grown seedlings will need to be seated in separate containers. Requirements for the landing container - a height of at least 10 cm, the presence of drainage holes.
  3. For seeds, you need to use light, loose and fertile soil, preferably with a neutral acidity level. A balanced composition for growing vegetables is available at any gardening store. You can prepare it yourself - mix in equal parts garden soil, humus and sand. Before use, the soil must be sterilized: treated with a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate, ignited in the oven or spilled with boiling water.
  4. Sowing technique. The optimal dates are late March or early April. In 55-60 days, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting to an open garden or greenhouse. In boxes, seeds are sown in grooves up to 1 cm deep and at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. In disposable containers, 2 seeds are placed on the surface of the soil and sprinkled with a thin layer of sand.


Types of purslane

In different sources, from fifty to one hundred species of purslane are found in the wild. But only two species are cultivated, each of which stands out for its outstanding characteristics.

Ornamental grandiflora (Portulaca grandiflora) - an alien from South America represent, depending on the variety, a variety of colors of flowers, and a different degree of their doubleness. There are even two colors at the same time. They are very similar to a miniature rose. The grass rises above the ground no higher than 25 cm. The leaves are small and oblong, in the shape of a herringbone.

Garden (Portulaca oleracea) or vegetable - originally from the Middle East and Central Asia. This species is considered a malicious weed and spreads in beds and crops.

Besides the fact that the plant is very attractive, the garden purslane has nutritional and healing characteristics. The leaves are almost round, and the golden flowers are smaller than that of the decorative species. There are hybrid French varieties with colorful leaves.

Purslane with edible properties, in our country, is cultivated extremely rarely, but the decorative type can be found quite often. It is planted in flower beds, alpine hills, rockeries and rabatkas, it is great in decorating balconies and terraces. The culture takes root perfectly in all, even very poor soils, tolerates a lack of moisture well, does not require weeding and fertilization. Its creeping shoots are spreading out, forming a thick "rug" of emerald leaves-needles with a scattering of multi-colored flowers. Each opened flower blooms only for a day, so the colorful landscape changes every day.

Portulaca is a very versatile culture. It is used as a ground cover, or it is planted in a stone garden along with colorful alpine plants. This is a great accent for areas where you grow spring bulb plants. It will fill in all the empty spaces after the primroses have faded. Portulaca also looks beautiful in containers and hanging planters. Since the plant requires little water, it is ideal as an edging along paths and flower beds.


Protecting the garden from frost

Garden plants are often damaged winter frosts and spring frosts.

Winter frost damage is more dangerous, as it can lead to the death of plants. Spring frosts mainly damage only flowers and ovaries.

With frequent repetition, spring frosts are the main reason for the lack of harvest in the current year.

The choice of an appropriate place for their cultivation is of decisive importance in preventing freezing of plants. The nicest places are gentle slopes from which cold air easily drips onto the fields below. Worst of all are the basins and other depressions in the area, in which cold air stagnates.

Unfortunately, the owner of the garden is not able to choose an appropriate place for it. If it is unsuccessful and threatens with the formation of stagnation of cold air, then it remains only for him to select frost-resistant species and varieties of plants for planting.

Choose frost-resistant varieties

Of the fruit trees, apple trees of such varieties as Grushovka Moskovskaya, Anis, Cinnamon striped, Antonovka ordinary, Welsey, Sharapay are suitable.

From pears, relatively frost-resistant varieties Tonkovotka, Bessemyanka, Autumn Bergamot. They can be planted in less favorable conditions.

What plants can be planted in cold places in the garden

Berry plants in such places can be grown strawberries, gooseberries and red currants, sea ​​buckthorn, cranberry, edible honeysuckle.

You can also plant raspberries. Its flexible annual shoots can be easily bent along the row and covered with earth to protect against winter frosts. Due to its labor intensity, this activity is usually not carried out on production plantations; in small garden plots, it is easy to do. Raspberries should be protected from frost, if only because they are then already insensitive to spring frosts to the same extent as most garden early flowering plants, for example, black currant... After all, raspberries bloom very late, just before fruiting, and their flowering stretches for almost the entire period.

In the absence of snow cover and with strong drops in temperature, strawberries and strawberries freeze out. To prevent freezing, these crops are covered with straw, straw manure or spruce branches in late autumn.

How to treat wounds in trees from temperature changes?

Very dangerous, especially for boles, are sudden temperature changes in the pre-spring period. At this time of the year, the sun warms up during the day and the trunks of large trees from the southern and southwestern sides are sharply reduced, causing damage to the delicate tissues of the “awakened” cambium. Then characteristic wounds called sunburn appear on the southwestern side of the boles. To prevent this kind of damage, low-stemmed trees are planted and a low crown is formed, which slightly shades the stem, and thereby reduces its heating.

It is recommended to whitewash the stem and branches of the skeletal branches. The white color reflects the sun's rays, which also reduces the heating of the stem tissue during the day and softens the difference between day and night temperatures. Usually fresh lime is used for whitewashing. Some people add cow dung or clay to it to increase adhesion.This event is held at the end of November and is repeated in January-March if the whitewash was washed off.

Trees with sunburn wounds can be helped by grafting long cuttings so that they are above the wound and restore water and nutrients that have been interrupted there. Wounds caused by hares and mice are treated in the same way.

Instead of cuttings, you can use root suckers and even specially planted wilds. After appropriate pruning, they are grafted and grafted “by the bark” over the wound.

Trees crack during particularly severe frosts. The heavily contracting outer layers of the tree cannot withstand the pressure on them from the less contracting inner layers and burst. This is accompanied by a sound that resembles a shot. Such frost cracks are not considered dangerous. Lubrication with garden varnish will help the fissure to heal.

Why are spring frosts dangerous?

At the end of winter and spring, the rest period ends in garden plants, leaves and flowers begin to develop, and a fruit ovary is formed. At the same time, the sensitivity to low temperatures increases. Even frost-resistant varieties that can withstand frosts of forty degrees are sensitive to light frosts in spring during flowering.

Spring is characterized by highly variable weather. Frosts occur quite often. Early flowering tree species are most sensitive to them - apricots, peaches and other stone fruits.

Flowers and ovaries of an apple tree die already at an air temperature of about - 4 degrees. However, this can happen even at 0. - 2 degrees

Of the bushes, black currant reacts especially strongly to frost, the growing season of which begins earlier than that of red currant. Frost damage can also damage flower buds, leaves, fruit ovaries and even shoots. When damage occurs in the rosebud phase, it is not noticeable. The most dangerous damage will not be.

Damage to the stigma and the column, of course, if the frost occurred after the pollination of the flower. Frost-damaged leaves become corrugated. And if the frost is long, they turn black and fall off.

Frost control methods

Currently, three methods of frost control are mainly used:

  • Fumigation (or fuming)
  • Heating
  • Wetting with water

All methods, unfortunately, cannot be called perfect.

Fumigation in practice can only be accomplished by burning brushwood and similar materials. It is not very effective and troublesome.

For heating on a plot of more than 600 square meters, it is necessary to light a dozen fires and maintain them during the entire period of sub-zero temperatures.

Sprinkling is very often used to combat frost. This method is based on the use of heat generated during the formation of ice during the freezing of water. Sprinkling, started immediately after the temperature drops to 0 degrees, must be continued continuously until the air temperature rises. Premature termination of sprinkling causes an immediate decrease in the temperature of the protected plants and the death of flowers and leaves.

When sprinkling, it is necessary to set the sprinkler so that it has the lowest water consumption. Otherwise, it can lead to the formation of ice during prolonged freezing, weighting and breaking of trees and bushes. The supply of water in the amount of 2.5 mm per hour ensures effective protection of plants from frost, at which the air temperature drops even to -10 degrees.

Studies have shown that flowering can be delayed for several days. by means of autumn and early spring thorough processing of the entire crown with a solution of lime.

Effectively spraying apple, pear, apricot and peach trees after the end of growth and before the start of laying fruit buds with the potassium salt of naphthylacetic acid at a concentration of 0.25-0.05%. Late autumn (10-12 days before leaf fall) extra feeding of fruit plants with 5% urea solution is used, summer pruning of apricot trees according to the method of P.G. Shita.

The drug Epin will help to save young shoots from spring frosts. It protects plants well from frost stress. Dilute the ampoule with 5 liters of water and spray liberally on the foliage. After the end of the frost, the procedure can be repeated.

In the spring of 1999, after the April heat wave, the trees began to bloom. And on the May holidays, a cold snap came with a temperature of about zero, snow and frosty nights up to -5 degrees. Both flowers and leaves with buds died. However, not all. One gardener not only covered his trees and bushes with spunbond, but also hung it inside the crown with a regular 40-watt incandescent light bulb, which he turned on at night. Surprisingly, this was enough to heat the crown.


How to root cuttings

First, cuttings are cut from an adult bush that they want to propagate. After that, the cylinders are prepared by pouring water for swelling. When everything is ready, in the cylinders, in the very center, make a small indentation with a pencil, a wooden stick. After planting the cutting, the swollen washer is gently squeezed by hand so that excess moisture comes out. That's it, the stalk is planted.

  • If the cuttings are recommended to be rooted in a greenhouse, then cover the improvised bed with foil and glass.
  • If the cuttings will germinate in cassette containers, then there is no need to cover with foil. It is enough to close the container lid.
  • Moisten the cylinder as it dries. Watering should be bottom, through the pallet. Or top, but drip. Or moisten by spraying moisture with a spray bottle.
  • Regularly ventilate the mini-greenhouse by opening the container lid or temporarily removing the film. This will help prevent the appearance of mold, prevent the appearance of fungal infections.
  • If everything is done correctly, roots will appear on the handle in a few weeks.

Good to know! This method can be used to grow and propagate citrus trees and bushes. Also, cultures that are considered rare, exotic. Anything for which the seed method of propagation is not suitable, and vegetative is preferable.

If roots have already grown

  • When a sufficiently strong root system is formed on the cutting, it, together with the planting cylinder, is transplanted into another pot or to a site, to a permanent place.
  • Planted in a pre-prepared hole. The remaining voids around the stem are filled with peat, humus, perlite.
  • After 7-8 days after transshipment, pinch the top of the cutting. This is necessary to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots, the formation of a lush crown.
  • At this stage, the cuttings with rhizomes are provided with normal watering, an abundance of light. Top dressing is regularly applied.

The methods of growing seedlings using peat and coke tablets are progressive and promising. Nutritious peat-peat substrates and coco-soils create a favorable microclimate for germination of seeds and seedling growth. Helps to avoid complications during traumatic procedures such as diving and transfer into open ground. Coconut and peat cylinders increase plant survival after transplanting. If you follow the technology of agricultural technology, you will be able to grow a crop that will delight any gardener and gardener.